this post was submitted on 26 Aug 2025
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[–] porksnort@slrpnk.net 15 points 12 hours ago* (last edited 12 hours ago) (1 children)

Has anyone heard of Toynbee Tiles? These are interesting by themselves but the relevant point is how they are made.

You make a mosaic out of vinyl flooring chunks on a backing of paper and roofing tar as mastic.

You place them paper side up on asphalt pavement in hot weather. As cars drive over them, the paper and tar wear off revealing the vinyl mosaic.

Just a thought that a group of people could quickly make a rainbow crosswalk that can’t be painted over.

Toynbee Tiles

[–] Machinist@lemmy.world 3 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

I've never seen one, but have read about them.

Really interesting from a guerilla art perspective. Also, the durability is innovative.

[–] porksnort@slrpnk.net 2 points 2 hours ago (1 children)

Yeah, it’s intriguing.

I have given it some thought and they could be made even more durable by using vinyl flooring adhesive to adhere the mosaic pieces to a backing of wire mesh.

The usual method uses only asphalt crack filler, which is still necessary, but it also requires one to assemble the design backwards. Adhering to metal mesh first would allow one to assemble it front the viewer’s perspective and reduce shifting of the pieces over time for more durability.

Not to mention that a basic CNC machine could cut the vinyl very precisely and in elaborate shapes. One could really take the quality and durability of the designs up a notch or two using the old noggin and modern Maker tools.

So now I am going to have to think of a place locally to do this….

[–] Machinist@lemmy.world 1 points 1 hour ago

Small squares as pixels would be time consuming, but would allow high detail even without a CNC.

Drag knife on a cricut wouldn't be strong enough for thick tile.Mill with a O-flute single flute plastic routing bit would be the way to go. 1/8" diameter, carbide, as fast the spindle will turn. Flute length as short as the tile thickness will allow. You'd want a few spares, you'll probably break a couple getting it tweaked. Start at .030 chip load, full width and depth, probably don't need a finish pass as the edge roughness will increase adhesion and won't be visible. Don't use coolant, don't breathe the dust, wear a P99 or P100 respirator, shop vac with HEPA for cleanup. Some tile may have abrasive fiber in it and will shorten tool life.

For fixturing, I think I'd use strap clamps and bars around edges. Use tabs between pieces almost like a stencil, lot of CAM software has a setting for auto tabs on profile cuts, cut from center to edges. Vacuum tables can be real temperamental, slow way down and still tab if trying to hold with vacuum. Double sided carpet tape can do it but has to be removed with acetone and IDK if that would effect the tile.

Just spitballing, I'd be afraid metal mesh might cause de-adherence over time, especially if it corordes. I really like the mesh idea. Loose cotton fabric like cheese cloth or maybe a little tougher would absorb the tar and might make it even stronger, just have to pour at a high enough temp. Fiberglass sheet might also work.