ISP can see your traffic anyways regardless if their router is at your end or not. In here any kind of 'user behavior monitoring' or whatever they call it is illegal, but the routers ISPs generally give out are as cheap as you can get so they are generally not too reliable and they tend to have pretty limited features.
Also, depending on ISP, they might roll out updates on your device which may or may not reset the configuration. That's usually (at least around here) made with ISPs account on the router and if you disable/remove that their automation can't access your router anymore.
So, as a rule of thumb, your own router is likely better for any kind of self hosting or other tinkering, but there's exceptions too.