fhqwgads

joined 1 year ago
[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 12 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Do you mean specifically webcam drivers? Because Magic Lantern still works as far as I know?

https://www.magiclantern.fm/

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 5 points 1 month ago (1 children)

the not removable Google search on the home screen and non removable date on the home screen means that I will never buy another Google phone.

I'm fairly sure that's just a launcher limitation, you can swap out the entire launcher to whatever you want. If you don't want something radically different I think lawnchair is still around.

https://lawnchair.app/

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 1 points 3 months ago

Ah, ok. The Unifi stuff is a bit weird like that. I recommend installing the controller on a computer if you continue to have issues. You don't have to run it all the time, just use it for config and then turning it off is fine. It'll give you way more information and control over exactly how the AP is set up.

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 1 points 3 months ago (2 children)

Which model is it? As far as I'm aware all the Unifi APs need the controller for config. It doesn't need to stay running unless you want a couple features for large deployments but you do need to run it to set things up initially. The Air Max / uisp lines are the ones with web based config.

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 3 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (4 children)

Do you have a continuously running unifi controller or is it only running when you do the config? Does it do the same thing with the controller opposite to how it is now (ie if you aren't running it does it do it when you leave the controller on)?

Are you running the 2.4 and 5 as separate SSIDs or the same one?

Are you on the latest controller and firmware?

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 12 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

Custom keyboards took off because of mechanical switches. Back in the day people wanted mechanical switches because they last longer than membrane ones, and so you wound up with a bunch of companies producing relatively easy to manufacture mechanical switches. Those switches all felt and sounded a little different so you got people who wanted a specific feel and sound and it grew from there.

There hasn't really been the same push with mice because even really cheap ones work really well. Optical sensors are way harder to produce than key switches, and while there are a few different ones on the market other than dpi and polling rate they kind of all act the same - it kind of either tracks right or it doesn't. There's no differentiation unlike switches that are "tactile" or "linear" or "scratchy". And because of size restrictions you can't really have the same kind of switches as keyboards use for the buttons. And unlike the really niche keyboard people who do their own PCB and machine their own case, making a good mouse on your own from scratch is way more difficult. They're weird shaped and it's much more difficult to change things like optical tracking algorithms compared to macros on a 40% keyboard. You can do a run of 100 super niche keyboards and make it work, but just the injection molds for one mouse mean you need to make 10000, which stops it being a project and makes it a business.

There are premium mice manufacturers, but in general they either are going super light, super ergonomic, or super functional - and honestly they have a hard time competing with a company like Logitech that can produce really similar features for a fraction of the cost and have a decent reputation to boot.

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 2 points 4 months ago

I believe you can change the scaling algorithm obs uses? Right click the source and go to "scale filter" is what Google is telling me, not at a computer right now. I think it defaults to bicubic which should be ok though? The switch does its own internal scaling a lot of the time and that can look pretty bad though, but unless you get into some serious shenanigans that's basically baked in.

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 6 points 8 months ago

Yeah newsprint would be a pain in an inkjet depending on exactly what it's like. It might not even be much thinner, it's often a little "fluffy" so it can be printed fast.

If you take it in somewhere and get it spiral / coil bound that's probably your best bet if you don't want to do a binder. You can do it yourself but you basically need a little desktop machine to do the punching which is annoying unless you're doing it regularly.

Traditional hardcover probably won't work for you. That involves printing a bunch of booklets called signatures then sewing them together and it's a whole thing. Basically there's a reason well made hardcover books are expensive.

You could do perfect or tape binding pretty easy though. Essentially you glue all the edges to a backing and then wrap a cover around it. It works ok for low usage, but if you want it to lay flat or hold up to abuse you'll have problems. You can kind of mitigate that by using a gpod spine backing but it's not a perfect solution. If the copy you have isn't already laid out for printing it may be worth it to edit it a bit so the contents are farther from the spine if you do that, but it makes printing a bit more complicated.

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 20 points 8 months ago (2 children)

So, I've never pirated a book but I do have some printing and binding knowledge, so some of this might be off base.

If the original book isn't fully chungus it's probably printed on a low weight newsprint, a low weight coated paper, or something weird like vellum or scritta. Problem is most of that is going to be specialty and only really available in rolls or large sheets through a distributor.

Most of the thinner stuff you'll be able to find in sheets has become a thing with fountain pen lovers. Look for Tomoe River or Bank paper. They are in the 50gsm range and should be a bit thinner than normal 75ish gsm copy paper. It's going to be way more expensive than normal printer paper but it should be thinner. The other issue is actually getting your printer to reliably print on thinner paper. Home printers, especially inkjets, really don't deal with thin paper particularly well. Lasers usually do better since they tend to use a different paper pickup and path, but they can still have issues.

Your printer should have a thin paper setting to reduce the amount of ink that it uses so you don't get as much bleed. The other thing you'll have to look out for is that those papers will take longer to dry than normal paper, so if your printer has a drying time you'll probably need to set it as high as it will go. You might even want to wait a day before flipping it over for the duplex print. Which you definitely should some that will literally halve the size of the book. It will probably be fine anyway since this is likely a multi day project just given how long it will take to spit 1000 pages out of an inkjet.

Unless you absolutely need to have the whole thing with you all the time, I would consider printing it in volumes. Even if you duplicate sections like an index or glossary or reference section or whatever, you're still probably going to have a lot less trouble and maybe spend less.

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 2 points 9 months ago (7 children)

I would be annoyed but does anyone actually use the show desktop button?

[–] fhqwgads@possumpat.io 9 points 9 months ago (8 children)

I think it's a conflation of the ideas of what copyright should be and actually is. I don't tend to see many people who believe copyright should be abolished in its entirety, and if people write a book or a song they should have some kind of control over that work. But there's a lot of contention over the fact that copyright as it exists now is a bit of a farce, constantly traded and sold and lasting an aeon after the person who created the original work dies.

It seems fairly morally constant to think that something old and part of the zeitgeist should not be under copyright, but that the system needs an overhaul when companies are using your live journal to make a robot call center.

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